Historical Sew Monthly September Challenge: Brown

This is my first HSF/M challenge ever!  Even though it’s not September anymore, this garment was completed in September, and I wanted to practice the HSF format.  This shirt was sewn as a commission for the man I sew for, who works full-time at a museum.

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This is the first of about 6 or more shirts I am sewing for him, as he wears 18th century more or less full time.  The shirt features machine sewing on all major inside seams, but all finishing (flat felling, hemming, buttonholes, etc.) are all handsewn.

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I added rectangular shoulder reinforcements, and triangular gussets at both the hip and neckline, which help make the shirt fit better and wear more durably.  I know that if my handsewing can stand the wear that this shirt will get, I should never have a problem with any of my clothes, as they have to endure considerably less wear.

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The sleeves are very full and considerably long, almost folding over near the wrist.  I may need to change that in future shirts, as they run the risk of getting caught and tearing or generally impeding movement.

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I wanted to try out marking the shirt with cross stitch, as it would help differentiate the shirts I make from the other ones he owns.  I sketched out my own gridded pattern for this, and put a “1” to signify which shirt this is.  Since in future shirts I will vary some elements for a better fit, numbering them makes it easier to tell them apart.

Here’s the quick and dirty info:

The Challenge: Brown

Fabric: Lightweight Unbleached Linen

Pattern: my own pattern, drafted from measurements

Year: approximately 1750-1820

Notions: linen thread, 5 bone buttons

How historically accurate is it? 80%, more or less.  The machine stitching would have been handstitched in the 18th century, but aside from that, as far as anyone can see, it is historically accurate.  I’m practicing stroked gathers for the next one, so it should be even better!

Hours to complete: A lot, I didn’t keep track.  I would estimate at least 40 hours, but probably more.

First worn: Worn for photos upon delivery and to ensure fit.  I think he has worn it to a reenactment since then.

Total cost: Since it was a commission and he provided the fabric, I don’t know.  This linen runs about 10 dollars a yard, so probably about $20 for fabric alone exclusive of labor.